This page will have monthly gardening tips/advice thanks to our very own

HL Master Gardener and NEIGHBOR,

Kathy Mullen.

THANKS , KATHY!!

Gardening Guide for December & January

Right about now there should be just a few chores remaining in our gardens…..it’s finally time to head indoors for a much-needed break.

Once your mums have finished blooming cut them back to about 5” above ground.

In a tip called “Dividing Hostas The Easy Way” Garden Gate Magazine suggests first making small holes where you want your transplants to go.  This is easily done using a small bulb planter.  Then remove soil around the mature Hosta exposing the root mass, remove the fading leaves and, with a twisting motion, use the bulb planter to slice out a section of the root mass.  This cut out section of root will easily fit into the awaiting hole, then simply repack the removed soil on top of the root section.

Two other tips, from the same magazine, are worth mentioning here.  The first offered an easy way to sterilize pruners to prevent the possible spread of diseases from plant to plant.  Using Clorox^® disinfectant wipes instead of messy jars, rags and drips will help keep your woody plants healthy.  The last tip suggests a simple and inexpensive method of labeling plants and keeping track of their locations when they’re hiding underground.  Use disposable plastic knives, points down, of course.  Mark the handles with a waterproof marker.  The blade serrations will even help inserting these “labels” in the soil and you’ll find that they will last several years.

It seems appropriate to mention our Christmas tree selection this month.  For those of you who still indulge in a cut tree you might want to consider a living Christmas tree that you can plant in your yard after the holidays.  There are at least half a dozen varieties suitable for the coast.  These would include Eastern and Southern Red Cedars, Japanese Cedar, Virginia Pine and Clemson Greenspire.  The only special care needed is plenty of extra water in the container, as these do not acclimate to the low humidity and diminished sunlight found indoors.  They should not be kept indoors for longer than a week to ten days.  While there are drawbacks keep in mind that with a living tree you’ll have a remembrance of your holiday for years to come.

In closing I would again like to thank those who helped around our beautiful grounds this fall, including the Kesslers who kept our pansies watered while I was away in October.  When I started the 15 Minute Committee it was in the hopes that there would be some folks who could only give a small amount of time, 15-20 minutes, and only when it would work for them.  Personally, I can relate to this  -  I might not be available on a Saturday morning at 9:00 – but maybe I could give 15 minutes at night for a few days.

So think about giving a few minutes of your time, our community is well worth it.  The proof is that you chose to live here.

Your flower-loving gardener,

Kathy Mullen

hearts1333@yahoo.com

Gardening Guide for November  2011

            (a bit early, but better early than......................!)

There was an interesting “tip” in a magazine regarding moving our houseplants in for the winter.  Often, when we go to do this at the last minute on a cold night, we may notice our plants could use some TLC.  What starts out as a little clipping may lead to eventually transplanting into smaller, more manageable pots.  This is actually quite beneficial.  Work under a shady tree and any lost dirt will fall into a bed unnoticed – a lot easier than cleaning up in the kitchen.  This also gives the opportunity to turn the plant upside down to check under the leaves for aphids and between the stems for spider mites.  If you find these little critters rinse them off and then spray with the appropriate pesticide.

For a showy Camellia remove all but one bud in each cluster, the theory being that the energy directed to a single bud, instead of several, results in a larger, showier flower.

One of my favorite magazines is Birds and Blooms.  This month, in addition to talking about blooms, I’d like to give some attention to a couple of birds – perhaps a little off topic – but timely.  Did you know that North America is home to 7 million wild turkeys?  These birds were almost extinct in the early 1900’s.  Wild turkeys can run 25 miles an hour and fly as fast as 55 miles an hour.  The largest turkey recorded weighed 37 pounds.  According to a survey by the National Wild Turkey Federation (headquartered in Edgefield, SC) nearly 88% of Americans eat turkey at Thanksgiving.

With Thanksgiving fast approaching it’s time to consider a local alternative to the traditional turkey.  That would be our very own Muscovy duck.  This variety is very unique: lean, meaty, tender and flavorful.  The breast meat is 99% lean and the skin has 50% less fat than other ducks.  That translates to the Muscovy duck having less fat and fewer calories, per pound, than turkey.  They are available, on-line for $30-35.

Your flower-loving gardener,

Kathy Mullen

hearts1333@yahoo.com

Gardening Guide for October 2011

            If our local weathermen can be believed, we may finally have some fall days to enjoy.

I subscribe to several gardening magazines and, by far, my favorite is “Carolina Gardener.”  A few gardening tidbits for this month have come from the current issue.

Many people have asked me if it is too late to prune.  It is never too late to keep Ligustrum, Oleander, Bottle Brush and Azaleas in check.  This means bushes can be kept under control; remove unruly branches and shoots, but do not cut too deeply into the mature wood.  Heavy pruning encourages new growth that may be injured by the coming cold temperatures.

Now is the time to review changes you wanted to make during the summer bloom.  Once you start your design plans, you may find that there is room for more plants.  Oh Joy!  Remember, trees, shrubs and plants have a greater chance of survival when planted during autumn’s cooler temperatures.

Be sure and keep an eye out for end-of-summer bargains.  Plants and shrubs may be heavily discounted at this time of year and usually bounce back with a little TLC.

The magazine had an excellent article on historical first and last frost dates.  The bottom line was that frost date calculation is not an exact science.  That being said, Southport (the nearest area given) was listed with a 10% probability of having 32^o on October 19.  So – remember those houseplants have to be brought back indoors.

In closing, a few ideas for autumn clean-up.  Something new to me was to “remove” annuals by cutting the plants where the stem meets the ground, rather than pulling the roots out.  This leaves good, well-textured soil in the ground that will be useful in the future.  Too late for me this year – but perhaps next fall.  The tops of most perennials such as Asters, Shasta Daisies, Irises and Daylilies should be trimmed.  The exception is one of my favorites, the Lenten Rose.  For this Hellebores wait until mid-winter to trim off old foliage, just before new leaves and flower stems rise.  If you are not familiar with this perennial, check it out.  What could be prettier than pink, purple or white flowers on a cold February day?

Enjoy the shortening days of October.

Gardening Guide for September 2011

At long last – September has arrived.  Hopefully it will bring with it cooler days and evenings for our gardening pleasure. 

Continue to water all plants, shrubs, grasses and trees.

By the end of the month pruning and fertilization should be discontinued.  Forced new growth can suffer from winter kill.  An exception is the roses.  We can continue fertilizing and spraying our roses as they prepare for their final blooms of the season.  Afterwards clip the bushes back by up to 1/3 and remove all dead or week stems.

Now is also the time to be neighborly and share plants that have grown too thick.  There must be someone who would be thrilled with some Hostas, Cannas, Coneflowers, Phlox or Foxgloves – to name just a few.  By dividing and transplanting this month the roots will have time to establish themselves before winter.

Later in the month we can shop for winter treasures; pansies, snapdragons, kale/cabbage and mums.  Any or all of these will add dramatic color to our fall landscape.

Fall is the best time to plant or replace shrubs.  I am always amazed at how easily gardenias take root.  Just clip and plant the cuttings and you too can experience the wonders of nature.

Did you know that the Spring fruiting and flowering of Nandina can be enhanced by applying a light dose of super phosphate and working it into the soil this Fall?

It is also time to think about bringing inside any houseplants that have enjoyed the summer outside.  The best time to make the move is when the outside temperature is about the same as the inside temperature.  Don’t forget to inspect for insects and critters as you bring them in.  Once inside, you can cut back on their watering. 

Clean any empty pots by dipping in a mild bleach and water solution and then rinse.

Remember our feathered friends.  Clean feeders and birdhouses and provide plenty of fresh water.

Enjoy, stay well and keep planting – “there’s always room for one more.”

Kathy's Wonders!!

Kathy's Wonders

Ideas and suggestions from others will also be included. 

(Kathy can be reached at hearts1333@yahoo.com)

IT HAS BEEN SUGGESTED WE HAVE A GARDEN/YARD OF THE MONTH. 

WHAT DO YOU THINK???  

MEANWHILE, HERE ARE THE "UNOFFICIAL GARDENS FOR MAY"!! 

 

Bev and Ed's Garden of the Month

Gloria's Garden

 

 

 

The "Weldon compost area"  is open! 

As many of you already use it to save a trip to the Recycling Center, just a reminder.

The  compost area is only for non-woody stem material: 

grass, leaves, etc, not sticks, branches, vines, bush clippings etc.

Please deposit your materials to the right of the white stake in the area designated as "COMPOST". 

That is our property line and we don't want materials placed on the lot next to ours.
Thanks for your cooperation!

 

Gardening Guide for June

                        As we admire our beautiful flower beds, be aware of some general maintenance ideas.  Stake tall plants such as gladioli and dahlias for stability.  Areas around your flowers should be kept free of leaves and debris to prevent mold and fungus.  Weeding by hand in the early morning helps prevent seed heads from scattering.  Keep bird feeders and baths filled and clean.  Birds do help keep your garden pest-free.

                        For an extended flower show, continue dead-heading.  The more flowers you cut, the more flowers you will have.  When cutting flowers from your garden do so in the early morning when the flowers are full of moisture.  I carry a container of cool water with me during my “harvesting” to place the newly cut flowers in and to prevent them from losing their moisture before I finish.

                        Replenish the mulch around your shrubs, trees and plant beds to a depth of 2-3 inches.  Aerate the beds as well to provide greater water and air distribution.

                        Check your irrigation system for faulty heads, leaks and proper coverage.  They can become damaged or clogged resulting in poor lawn growth and/or wasting of water.  I am amazed that all appears well in April only to find that in mid-June – July, in the heat of summer, a shrub appears to be dying off.  When the irrigation is checked we find that some creature came and repositioned that “perfectly-placed” sprinkler head.

                        June is nearly the end of the transplanting season until fall.  Because of the upcoming heat and lower rainfall amounts (are they here already?) it is better to move plants in the evening hours and water frequently for several weeks.  This will ensure that the transplants stabilize and re-establish themselves properly.

                        In closing I would like to thank the community and the Board for allowing me to indulge myself at the front entrance.  Soon the sign will be refurbished and I will go out there “one evening” to plant several Pennisetum hamelin grasses, Blue Daze (Evolvus) and many Dianthus – in two varieties.  This will complete the spring planting for this year.  I do hope you all enjoy the effect as much as I have enjoyed the planning and planting.  My thanks again to all those, especially Matt, who have given the extra hands in making this project a success.

 

Your flower-loving gardener,

Kathy Mullen

hearts1333@yahoo.com

 

Gardening Guide for May 2011

            May is the month to begin enjoying the fruits of our hard labor.

 

            Here are a few tips to keep our plants and flowers happy as the hot weather approaches:

            Morning watering is always best.  Evening watering causes plants to stay wet longer allowing diseases time to attack the plants overnight.  Do not water in the heat of the day.  It’s costly, wasteful and ineffective.

            I have several rose bushes and I have vowed to learn a little more about their care so that I don’t destroy them.  I recently read a few things, some of which I had already heard of and another I wish I had known about.  Keep removing spent flowers to just above a five-leaflet set.  Cut off the three-leaflet sets next to the spent blooms these three-leaflet sets do not produce strong flowers.  Dead head roses so that the plant remains balanced with three or four healthy main canes.  Watering roses with soaker hoses rather than spray irrigation reduces their exposure to fungal diseases (this is the one I didn’t know about).

 

            Some things to do now for our trees and shrubs:

            If you have planted or moved ornamentals, they will need watering during dry periods.

            If your crepe myrtles and azaleas were not fertilized in April, they may benefit from a good fertilizing now.

            Powdery mildew may be a problem during this month.  This fungal disease may be controlled by spraying with a fungicide according to label directions.

 

            Finally some input about our front entrance.  To enhance the beautiful brickwork each side has a Pineapple Guava tree that will be blooming in late spring to early summer with pink and white flowers.  In each corner next to these trees you will find transplanted Stella de Oros, a low-growing variety of yellow daylily.  Each lower area has 3 purple Encore Azaleas which should flower several times a year.  All of these areas are heavily mulched to retain moisture and discourage weed growth.

           

            Below the highway end of our sign we have Lantanas, Stakosias, Liriopes and more Stellas.  The rounded part of the bed has red and blue Salvias in the corners with the center containing Spiderworts, dark-leaved Heuchera, Verbena and Vinca.  All but the Vincas are perennials and will return every year.  I pray for that daily.

 

            The long beds under the faces of the sign will be completed when the sign is repaired and returned like new.  The perennial “cherubs” that will be planted there are growing on my deck.  They have been replanted two times and are now all in one gallon containers, fed and watered regularly and talked to frequently.

 

 

Your flower-loving gardener,

Kathy Mullen

hearts1333@yahoo.com

 

 

 

 

Gardening Guide for April 2011 

            Glorious Springtime is my favorite season, and it has finally arrived.

            Tender annuals started indoors should gradually be hardened-off before planting in the garden.  This is done as follows:

1.      Reduce watering and set the plants outdoors in a shaded area during the day.  Bring them inside at night.

2.      Continue this for three or four days.  If the daytime temperature is expected to be below 50⁰ keep them indoors.

3.      After the 3 or 4 days the plants should remain outside all day and night.

4.      After a week or two the plants will be hardened-off and ready to be transplanted.

            Keep the transplants well watered and mulched, so they will be ready for the summer heat.

            Plants absorb liquid fertilizers through their leaves and roots and will need to be fed more frequently with the liquid fertilizers if you’re not using a granular variety. If you do choose a slow-release, granular fertilizer you may not have to feed until mid-summer.

            For those of us who have Centipede grass mow the grass at 1” at the time of initial green up and certainly before it gets to 1½”.  Through the remainder of the growing season it should be maintained at 1½” and not allowed to get longer than 2”.  Actively growing grass needs 1” of water each week while all of it at once is better than a little bit at a time in order to promote the best root growth.  Proper watering through the spring and summer helps to prevent or reduce problems in the late summer and early fall.

            Now that the lawns (and weeds) are greening up pre-emergent herbicides are not effective. Do not apply post-emergent herbicides until 3 weeks after green up.  If you do use spot or broadcast weed killers during the growing season read the label and make certain they are safe for your particular variety of southern lawn.

St. Augustine grass performs best when mowed between 2 and 4 inches depending on the cultivar.  The normal growth cultivars like Raleigh should be mowed between 3 and 4 inches, while the semi-dwarf growth habit cultivars such as Palmetto and Mercedes can be mowed between 2 and 3 inches.  

Begin mowing as soon as the lawn turns green in spring.  Always leave the clippings on the lawn in a practice called 'grass-cycling'.  If prolonged rain or other factors prevent frequent mowing and clippings begin to clump, they can be collected and used as mulch.  Never remove more than ⅓ of the leaf tissue in any single mowing.

Now is the time to clean up plants and flowering beds.  In so doing we are rewarded with the perennials peeking up in the garden.  Apply slow-release fertilizer as the shoots emerge and water afterwards to make the minerals available to the roots.

Make sure to allow yourself some time to enjoy the wonders of nature whether it be the trees coming to life, the ever changing colors of the Lorapetelum, the Azalea buds preparing to burst or listening to the many melodies as our feathered friends share their beautiful songs with us.

Wishing you a healthy and outstanding spring.

 

Your flower-loving gardener,

Kathy Mullen

 

 

Gardening Guide for March

While we’re anxiously waiting for the weather to warm up this is an ideal time to prune back and repot any crowded houseplants.

Those nicer days are perfect for going outside and getting your hands dirty.  Unless you’re one of the lucky ones, there are plenty of weeds to pull and loads of debris to pick up.

If you haven’t had your soil tested in a few years you can drop off garden and lawn samples at the Clemson Extension Service office in Conway.  For a small fee you will be sent an analysis that shows soil pH and nutrient levels.  The report will also advise you on how to correct any deficiencies that are found.  For more information go to: www.clemson.edu/extension/hgic/plants/pdf/hgic1652.pdf

It’s still too early to begin fertilizing your lawns and most plants.  It’s possible that we may still have some frost or freezing temperatures.  These conditions can damage the new growth that fertilizing encourages.

Palms are one exception to the above.  They need to be fertilized two times a year, in April and again in July.  Palm fertilizers are available (12-4-12-4 NPKMg) that contain the exact proportions of major nutrients along with specific ones that palms need.

Roses are another exception to the don’t-fertilize-now rule.  They are heavy feeders and you can start using a slow-release fertilizer after the roses begin to leaf out.

Many of us have Liriope.  I actually have too much of it and until recently I didn’t know that these plants should be clipped to within a couple of inches of the ground.  They can even be mowed down – now how easy is that?  Shrubs that can be pruned now are Cleyera, Hollies and Pittosporum.  For flowering shrubs like Azaleas and Camellias wait until after they have finished blooming before pruning them.

I have ordered some Perennials for our main entrance.  Over time, I hope to have some nice colors and varied textures by including always-beautiful annuals by the sign.  My goal is to reduce the annual cost for flowers at the entrance by introducing plants that will provide nearly year-round color and beauty.  I’d like to include some Sedum in the plantings.  Do you have some to share?  I’ll even come dig them up. 

Feedback to the Gardening Guide is always welcomed along with any ideas you might like to share.

Your flower-loving gardener,

Kathy Mullen

hearts1333@yahoo.com

Gardening Guide for February

Gardening Guide for January

Now is the time to enjoy the slower pace created by the cold weather.  Plants are resting and recharging themselves for spring and we should be doing the same.  Relax and go through seed catalogs and make plans for the new year’s garden.  Consider a journal where you can keep track of seed and plant orders and perhaps some notes for changes in the garden.  It is much easier to erase a mistake than to plant and then have to dig a plant up.

Remember to clean flower pots with one part bleach to ten parts of water in order to prevent diseases.

Stay on track with the lawn by keeping it free from leaves and dead branches.  Plants, including shrubs, trees and grasses, need water in the winter.  Fortunately we have had some recent rains but this may or may not continue.

I was considering converting, over time, to rubber mulch.  I recently read an article that stated this mulch does indeed eventually break down and as it does the chemicals that leach from it are anything but benign.  If rubber mulch is ignited it is more difficult to extinguish than other mulches because of the petroleum content.

Here are some thought and facts that appeared in a recent issue of “Yard Smarts” from Better Living Magazine:

Four reasons to plant a tree:

1.      Trees boost the market value of a home by as much as 20%.

2.      The planting of trees improves water quality resulting in less runoff and erosion.  Wooded areas prevent the transport of sediment and chemicals into lakes and streams.

3.      In laboratory tests a tree-filled scene reduced test subjects’ stress within 5 minutes.

4.      One acre of trees absorbs 6 tons of carbon dioxide per year and produces 4 tons of oxygen in the same time.  That is enough oxygen to sustain 18 people for a full year.

Perhaps we should look into planting free trees on our “tidy cleared lots.”

I still enjoy starting a few plants from seed every year.  While it is not really cost-effective there is a priceless joy in being able to state, “Oh yes, that one – well I grew it from seed.”

Here’s a secret to producing strong seedlings: Connect a small fan to an automatic timer and direct it toward the seedlings.  Set the timer to alternately turn the fan on and off every 20-30 minutes for several hours each day.  The gentle breeze produced will cause the plants to develop thicker stems and they will be better prepared for life outdoors.

Have a very healthy and Happy New Year! 

Your flower-loving gardener,

Kathy Mullen

Gardening Guide for December

A Holiday Fact: In 1828 the Mexican-born Poinsettia made its way into the United States.

            Purchase Poinsettias that have stiff, upright limbs.  These plants do not like soggy feet, therefore, make sure your pots have drainage holes and that any foil covering the container does not trap water.  Do not over water.

            A recent newspaper article caught my attention, as I know so many neighbors turn off their irrigation for the winter.  Even through the cold season when the local lawn grasses go dormant they still need water to prevent drought stress.  The one-inch of water per week rule still holds, so if there isn’t that much water through rainfall a good watering with the irrigation system is required.  In addition, both evergreen and perennial root systems need water to survive so you can see the importance in watering lawns, gardens and flower beds.  Now is also a good time to remove leaves from your lawn to prevent disease and suffocation of the roots.

            Outdoor plants that need protection from the cold should be covered with burlap, sheets or blankets.  DO NOT USE PLASTIC.

            More Holiday Facts: 

Each year 30 million live Christmas trees are sold in the U.S.  For every tree harvested, three seedlings are planted in its place in the spring. 

In 1882, the first Christmas tree lights were hand-made in red, white and blue, but by 1903 they were being mass produced.  A typical lighted tree of the early 1900s could cost as much as $300.00 ($2,000.00 today).           

Now, the best for last – we Americans toss out 25% more trash between Thanksgiving and New Year’s Day than during any other 6 week period all year.

             Remember – if you are thinking about Camellias this year – select and plant them while they are in bloom during these winter months.

             Finally – don’t forget our feathered friends.  Keep those feeders and baths cleaned and filled.  I’m still seeing hummingbirds at my feeders and I have read that it’s okay to keep their feed available all winter.  It’s a reward that works both ways.

Wishing you healthy and joyous holidays,

Your flower-loving gardener,

Kathy Mullen